MEXIGUANA

2011-12-15T17:47:00.000-08:00

“Doing What Makes Me Smile”

Together with Titi Rábago and Ivan Montes, Kate Burt has formed a new singing group, Aoide, namedfor the muse of song. It will present Benjamin Britten’s Ceremony of Carols andearly music at the Museo Iconografico December 15, 8pm. Some pieces are a cappella but Dulce Escudero/harpand Kate and Miguel Espinozo/harpsichord will be there when a piece requires accompaniment.

Several years ago, Kate used the internet to decide where tostudy Spanish. During her first weeks in Guanajuato, this effervescent woman beganmeeting people who share her passion for theater and music. Now she has lived here fortwo years, bringing her experience with her.

Near New York City, Kate did everything from dressmaking tocostume design, took student theater groups she directed to the EdinburghFringe Festival, went into New York to sing with opera groups, and presentedrecitals of Edith Piaf’s songs.

A year ago, she repeated her Piaf concert at the Olga Costa.She and Silvana Santibañez assisted Alonso Echánova in his work with a cast ofstudent actors. Now the two women have founded a Little Theater called ElQuinto Elemento that has started rehearsing what Kate refers to as a sweetcomedy, “Milagritos a la orden,” by Norma Roman Calvo.

Kate says her teaching style owes much to her experienceworking under the director of the Amato Opera Company. “Because my students atthe Music Schoolare understandably afraid of auditions, that’s what we work on. Even a littletrick like putting your thumb on the line you are singing can help.”

The opera scores Kate brought with her occupy a speciallybuilt bookcase. Her eyes sparkle as she mentions an opera performances shethinks was done just right--Franco Zeffirrelli’s version of Carmen, set duringthe Spanish Civil War, with Carmen shown as a double agent. “It worked,” saysKate, savoring the memory.

What Better for a cold than estofada (beef stew)?

2011-11-14T13:36:00.001-08:00

This savory stew of carrots, potatoes and beef is from Pedro Acevedo's take away (para llevar) run from his middle-class house on the left branch of Pastita #42 going from the center of town. Reasonable main dishes, several each day, rice, pasta beans, skimpy salads. Among the specialties: vegetarian lasagne, moles, fish (Fridays), pozole. Open Monday through Friday until mid-afternoon but call in the morning to order. Tele: 731-3328 to order or find out the dishes of the day.

Living Life Fully in Guanajuato

2011-11-08T14:28:00.000-08:00

Louise (Luisa) Lander putting her values into practice as she demonstrated to preserve the Bufa, a hill overlooking Guanajuato about a year ago. Louise, from New York, moved to Guanajuato a dozen years ago, built a good life, and died here suddenly last weekend.

Cervantino 2011: Petroushka lives!

2011-10-31T19:50:00.000-07:00

    Stravinsky's Petroushka with new choreography by Diego Vasquez had me on my feet clapping at my final Cervantino event.

     For anyone wondering about the future of the High Arts in Mexico, this new contemporary dance piece, ostensibly for children, confirms that they do. Don's let the label put you off. With support from four national government entities, the Laleget Danza-Ballet de Camera of Morelos State have together created a colorful dance event that ran for three months in Mexico City before gracing our festival.

     First off, the dancers move like marionettes come to life. Dressed in colorful costumes, they dance in front of and in a cube-shaped giant jungle gym on a revolving stage, as they reach the audience with this story full of emotion and action set to Stravinsky's brilliant score.

     But there is always more to come when the narrator invites children in the audience to dance onstage with the cast. Believe me, there was no shortage of takers! And I could see that the children had followed the dancing so carefully, they knew just how to mimic the pros.

I left the Principal energized and with tears in my eyes.

Disclaimer: Not only because I've loved this ballet since I saw it danced and heard the music when I was in my impressionable twenties.

Cervantino Light 2011

2011-10-31T15:35:00.000-07:00

Browsing the Book Fair

Lots of happy clapping a minute before

Easy listening, hard to photograph

2 Cervantino 2011 Blockbusters & A Pleasing Surprise

2011-10-31T14:37:00.000-07:00

"Human nature is both tragic andcomic. For me the most fascinating thing to observe is how everything meets,how everything happens in the same space."

The words arethe words of Lev Dodin, head of the Maly Drama Theatre in Moscow,who directedthe performance of Uncle Vanya seen by Cervantino audiences. The thought,expressed several years ago in an interview, could just as well have comefrom his equally theatre-smitten countryman, Anton Chekhov. Nowonder Dodin, who has directed plays by writers as diverse as TennesseeWilliams and Karel Capek, is an ideal director for Chekhov's chiaroscuro ‘comedies”that mingle light and shadow, character and caricature, ideas and action, thetimely and the universal, despair and laughter.

In the Cervantino performances of Uncle Vanya(Tio Vanya), under Dodin's direction, everything under his control meshed--lighting,set, props, costumes, movement, voices, language, and ideas, with only one thunderclapcoming in off-cue.

As usual, there were excellent supertitles,this time accompanying Russian actors and Russian rhythms of speech--Chekhov'swork as he would have heard it. I had suffered through an ill-conceived versionat an earlier Cervantino. Thank heavens, I had this chance to see it doneright.

Unfortunately, the night I went, the longplay was competing with Carlos Nunez and the San Patricio Battalion, perhapsthe reason for the small audience. Seems as if the Cervantinodecision-makers could offer unsold theatre seats to students a few minutesbefore a theater performance. A full house would give visiting troupes a goodfeeling about performing in

Mexico

,give young people a break and develop audiences for the future.

Peter Brook’s A Magic Flute, his variation onMozart’s title of the beloved opera-with-speech played to an exhilaratedaudiences at the Juarez,where a young, able cast presented Brook’s stripped-down version.. Pianist/composerFranck Krawczyk worked with Brook to create the musical collage of Mozartianmelodies and Marie-Helene Estienne collaborated on the libretto. Both werehere, Krawczyk onstage at the piano, Estienne standing in for Brook, whosesciatica keeps him from traveling. “But he calls us every day,” she saidemphatically at the press conference.

Mozart loved The Flute, going to almost everyperformance. I can imagine him delighted by the poles moving farther and fartherapart while the lovers finally merge in a kiss.

At Valenciana, The Oslo Camerata played anartfully arranged program ranging from baroque to Bjorklund, a contemporary Norwegiancomposer whose Concerto for Violin and Strings received resounding applause.

Santa Rosa Sweetie

2011-08-15T16:44:00.000-07:00

This plum (ciruela) jam comes from the Santa Rosa Women's Coop. Delicious - sells for 25 pesos. This was my pick, other jams made from local fruits also available.

First news of this year's International Cervantino Festival (FIC) program

2011-06-24T09:00:00.000-07:00

Tuesday was the day Guanajuato residents were waiting for - the announcement of this year's Cervantino which will run from October 12-30. The ambassadors of the invited countries Sweden, Norway, Denmark and Finland to Mexico were on the podium as was the governor of Nayarit , the invited state. This year's event has as an ecological theme "The Gifts of Nature" threading through some offerings.Believe me, the Swedish ambassador with her blonde hair and long lets stood out as much as Ayla did in the movie version of Jean Auel's Clan of the Cave Bear.

I'm especially looking forward to the Mexico-US co-production of Daniel Catan's opera Il Postino, based on Skarmeta's popular novel about Pablo Neruda and his mailman. Russia will bring two standout events, the St. Petersburg Symphony and a theater troupe performing Chekhov's Uncle Vanya, with the director giving two public lectures as well. Miguel Rios will sing at the closing event at the Alhondiga.

As always there will be more jazz, dance, classical, pop and world music, and indoor and street theater from a host of countries than any one festival-goer can attend. Events at the Alhondiga are free (a season ticket for chairs at the front can be purchased) as are the art events, movies and street theater. Tickets for other events are for sale at the ticket office (taquilla) on the left side of Teatro Juarez and through Ticketmaster. Stay tuned for more information

And if you'll be making a first trip to Guanajuato, click on my recent article available by searching Rochelle Cashdan at www.redroom.com.

The Light Approach to Solo Travel

2011-04-25T19:52:00.000-07:00

You can find my article with tips on packing light at www.associatedcontent.com, then entering solo travel in the Search window. Even a single tip may pay off, for example, taking clothes you're willing to leave behind so you'll free up space to bring back something special.

Big Tourist Weekend in Guanajuato, Easter and the 3 Days Before

2011-04-21T18:22:00.000-07:00

North American and European tourists are few and far between this year but Mexican visitors keep coming to Guanajuato Today, the Thursday before Easter, it's traditional to visit seven churches, easy to do in this city. Just for starters, there's the Basilica, La Compania, San Diego, San Francisco, San Sebastiano, the Pardo, Valenciana (San Cayetano) -- well, that's seven already. Mellado and Cata are farther from the center but both are well worth visiting too and accessible by local bus. The people on the streets carrying little yellow flowers have just come from a church.

Weren't here for Day of the Kings, Jan 5-6?

2011-02-10T12:07:00.000-08:00

See more of my photos of the eve when children send up their Want List to the three kings by balloon and the Kings as they appeared on Guanajuato's main street the next day. At REDROOM, type my name in the search box and then click the third entry for my blog.

Life isn't always simple in Mexico

2011-02-10T11:48:00.000-08:00

Three weeks ago I bought a ticket through Paypal to hear Sandra Cisneros speak at the writers conference in San Miguel de Allende on March 19. She is the well-known author of The House on Mango Street and a favorite of mine for her more recent novel Caramelo.

Then this week I went to the Banco del Bajio to pay for a ticket to the opera Nixon in China being transmitted in high-deifinition TV to the Cultural Forum in Leon. I assumed the date would be the 12th, but only found out when I called the Cultural Forum for my seat number that, only for this performance, Mexican showings will be, you guessed it, the 19th. Ah well, I think I will find someone who wants to hear Sandra. A hard decision for me to make but I'm curious about John Adams' opera based on this event in my life time and besides want to see the new, spectacular theater at the Cultural Forum.

My sixth story online

2011-01-08T18:34:00.000-08:00

Here's the link for "The Revenge of the Pasta" at Long Story Short where you'll see a clickable link on the left side:

http://www.alongstoryshort.net/

This is flash fiction, meant to be read quickly. Enjoy!

Historic Mexican Revolution Photos Exhibited in Guanajuato & Other Mexican Capitals

2010-12-17T19:08:00.000-08:00

I've already seen this exhibit in Morelia and Guadalajara and plan to go again now that I'm back in Guanajuato.
Allow an hour or more to read the explanations of Mexican history that accompany each section, really look at the photos and I think you'll see images you will never forget. An added plus, you'll see how the techniques of photojournalism improved during the 10 year war. Through January, 2011.

2010's Top 10: My most popular articles at www.associatedcontent.com

2010-12-17T18:56:00.000-08:00

Mexican Fruits and Vegetables

Living with your Broken Arm

Understanding Iraq

Men Who Can't Love

Professional Interpreter Explains His Work

Best Months to Visit Guanajuato, Mexico

Healthy Eating on your Mexican Vacation

Buing Medications in Mexico

Native American Artists Talk about Their Work

John Updike Wrote More than "At the A&P"

International Cervantino Festival 2010 Keeping Me Busy

2010-11-07T15:09:00.000-08:00

More to come but for starters here's a great link to clock to see 360 degree views of the places where the Cervantino events take place. My favorite so far, the view of the ex-hacienda San Gabriel de Barrera.

http://www.festivalcervantino.gob.mx/Public/MainVisitaVirtual

A 10th Coffeehouse and 2 teahouses in Guanajuato

2010-09-28T11:30:00.000-07:00

El Cafetin, between the San Francisco Church and the Museo Iconografico has outdoor and indoor seating, bagels as well as coffee, and some evenings hosts literary events. For a list describing nine other coffeehouses, see my article at www.associatedcontent.com. The warm sunny weather now is perfect for walking around and sampling.

Two teahouses I like are El Lechon Ilustrado and La Vida sin Ti. You'll find El Lechon on Cantaritos, a callejon to the right of the San Roque church, opens at 1pm, closes around 10. Going uphill it's on the left, nearly to Positos. La Vida sin Ti is at the foot of Sangre de Cristo beneath the Bar Fly and serves food too. Opens in the morning, stays open until at least 10pm. Both places serve leaf tea.

Guanajuato's new Museum of the 19th Century

2010-09-13T09:25:00.000-07:00

The museum opened last Thursday at Positos 25. I'll be writing more about it soon.

And "soon" is here. Last night at 7 I attended a chamber music concert at the museum. A trio played works by J.S. Bach, Vivaldi, Tartini and ar Baroque composer whose name begins with A. This was the first of a series of planned concerts. Free. There are only about 65 seats so arrive early. By the time I arrived, there was standing room only.

Guanajuato Birthday Party

2010-09-13T09:16:00.000-07:00

I'm not 200 years old like Mexico, but I decided to celebrate my recent birthday with friends from the Paseo de la Presa-Embajadoras-Pastita part of Guanajuato, in other words, my neighbors. We feasted on French chocolate cake from El Midi in Plaza San Fernando and three flavors of ice-cream, banana, pistachio and mantecado (something like rum-raisin and a great Mexican favorite), washed down by iced tea and soft drinks. Some of the guests knew each other, others didn't at the beginning. Everyone, Mexican or gringo, sang Las Mananitas the Mexican birthday song and I ended up with two bouquets of flowers, two flowering plants and a round box of little cakes covered with lemon frosting.

Nearly the end of the fresh fig season

2010-09-13T09:06:00.000-07:00

but you may still see a vendor with little piles of them across from Embajadoras Market. Delicious (wash before eating) and beautiful when you bite into them.

Guanajuato Book Fair Fights the Rain

2010-08-08T21:06:00.000-07:00

A canvas cover protected the booksellers and their wares in Pastitos the past three weeks. At 6pm during the first two weeks, a live program was presented every night. Believe me, the spoken word comes alive when readers who seem like actors present it. One program was a tribute to writers who died during the year, including Miguel Delibes of Spain. After the program I found a used copy of his book Los Santos Inocentes. Delibes was new to me and now I am a fan. I hope to add at least one photo to this post but not tonight. Another hope: that the festival will repeat next year in a sunnier season.

Mexicans Who Immigrate, Mexicans Who Stay Home

2010-07-03T19:59:00.000-07:00

A few months ago I saw a documentary called "Los Que Quedan" about the joys and difficulties of Mexicans who do not go north. That movie led me to write about a family I know. You can read my human interest article by going to www.associatedcontent.com, then typing Rochelle Cashdan in the search window. Or if you're hungry, sample my article Mexican Fruits and Vegetables.

Wondering why the jump between hot and wet?

2010-07-02T17:58:00.000-07:00

I was away for 15 days in Philadelphia, Washington, New York and Mexico City. Highlights for this water-deprived Bajio dweller, staying near the water in Red Hook. Brooklyn, then taking the IKEA ferry across to Wall Street; seeing family and friend. Going to and from a family wedding in Washington in my son's car from Philadelphia was easy. So was riding the Megabus round trip between Philadelphia and Penn Station, New York. The World Cup started while I was staying at a hostel in Philadelphia and of course was still on when I came back to Mexico. As my landlady told me later, Mexican football announcers have a chispa, spark. Yes, in comparison, the US announcers were stolid. I also saw the world class photo exhibit Roads to Freedom, black and white photos of the Civil Rights Movement, 1956-1968; Dead or Alive, contemporary art using natural materials at the Museum of Arts and Design; and in Mexico City, an engrossing exhibit of I think ninety beyond-black works by the French artist, Pierre Soulages at the Museo de la Ciudad de Mexico. Now, as you can see by the rainy day post below, it's back to everyday life. Also to a World Cup without Mexico.

When I walked home today from El Centro with Barbara Davoli, who has been teaching English here for fifteen years or more, I realized I was accompanying a master communicator. Funny to hear her calling a Mexican acquaintance by a Russian name, as he did her. She told me they tease each other because they don't know each other's real names. In fact, many Mexicans have imported first names, partly to differentiate one Lopez, Gonzales or Garcia from another. I've even met a student named Stalin. He told me he was #17 in his family and his father was running of names. Who knows?

Because I suffer from hearing loss, I'm not Barbara's equal but I find bumping into people I know as I walk about town one of the joys of Guanajuato life.

Rainy weather

2010-07-02T17:23:00.000-07:00

Two days of umbrella carrying weather, today cool, cloudy, sidewalks still wet. The usual 11:00 fitness activity on the grass at Pastitas suspended but the San Juan Days flower sale closer to the frogs still thriving. If you want to buy dirt, you can do that too. Last day, Saturday, June 4. Guanajuatenses consider the rainy season a blessing, perhaps an attitude beginning with roots in earlier, more agricultural times and nowadays because the city reservoirs are low. Rainy months variable, between July and September, with rain falling gently or torrentially, usually in the afternoon or at night.

Hot, Hot, Hot

2010-06-03T20:03:00.000-07:00

Today's high went to 93 Fahrenheit, with more of the same expected for the next two days. So cross over to the shady side of the street, carry your water bottle with you and drink from it, and plan your active time for before 11am and after 5pm. Mornings and evening temperatures may be as low as the 50s.

Weekly concerts at the Museo Iconografico, Thursdays 7pm

2010-05-23T20:13:00.000-07:00

This museum is full of paintings and other art work based on the Don Quixote novel, but I never knew why it was called Museo Iconografico. I finally found out and pass the clue along in case you're wondering too:

iconografía (f)
n. iconography, representation of ideas or meanings through visual images; study of such images

The concert on the 27th will feature Marie Park (oboe), Kathy Snelling (bassoon), Cuautemoc Trejo (flute) & Anna Cervantes (piano) playing 20th and 21st century music. The concerts take place in the sculpture patio, itself worth the price of admission. Cost: cost 50 pesos, 20 with an INAPAM card.

More on Guanajuato Coffeehouses

2010-05-15T10:40:00.000-07:00

Click the link

http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/2462896/nine_coffeehouses_in_guanajuato_mexico
to my article on this fragrant subject. And here are coffeehouses 10,11 and 12 -- Guanajuato's three branches of the Italian Coffee Company, a Mexican firm based in Puebla. Whether you're in Plaza San Fernando, Plaza Pozuelos (where Mega is the anchor store) or at the little plaza on Truco by Avenida Juarez, you'll find one.

Have you petted an itzcointli?

2010-05-15T08:20:00.001-07:00

If you drop into Iik, the shop that sells Guatemalan purses and more in front of the San Francisco church, you can see Mezcalito, their Izcointle dog. Mezcalito is a direct descendant of the dogs here in Mexico long before the Spaniards came. The only parts of his body with hair are the crest on his head and the tuft at the end of his tail. He's a friendly, intelligent dog as his playmate knows.

Hear the Estudiantina singers on the web

2010-05-10T17:32:00.000-07:00

Guanajuato's municipal tourism office now has a stunning new website Disfruteguanajuato where you can be reminded of going with the Estudiantina singers as they wind their way up the callejones (lanes) or plan to include an evening accompanying them when you are here. And here's the link to a state of Guanajuato >site.

May a Month of Religious Processions

2010-05-10T17:05:00.000-07:00

All during May, unions, guilds, societies will wend their way toward the Basilica just before twilight, at 6:30 or 7. The other photo was taken the same evening of a group going the other way toward their neighborhood church. And the photo of the sky is a reminder to look up. I've lived in Guanajuato nearly eleven years and this was the first time I realized I could see one of the muses on the Teatro Juarez roof and the statue of the Pipila on the ridge at the same time.

Tips on Navigating Mexiguana

2010-03-19T11:16:00.000-07:00

The easiest way to see if there are posts on, say, restaurants or the Cervantino Festival, is to type the word in the search box and click. The post beginnings will come up on a bright yellow background for you to investigate.

The labels list is handy if you have the time to find other posts that might interest you.

Interested in 20th Century Mexican Art?

2010-03-19T10:40:00.000-07:00

Yes, Diego and Frida were not the only ones painting. The Blaisten Collection in Mexico City (near Tlatelolco metro stop) contains a stunning collection of works by Mexican artists, many viewable online. A good "room" to start in is the one with paintings of city and country life.

Gene Byron Museum programming children's events

2010-03-05T10:54:00.000-08:00

The GB now hosts a free concert for children at 12 noon the first Saturday of each month. The photo comes from an earlier for-pay family concert featuring the story of Babar set to music by Faure, with Ana Cervantes and Lirio Garduño the performers.

La Lectura: Guanajuato's English Language Writers Monthly Gathering

2010-03-04T14:26:00.000-08:00

First of all, Guanajuato is also home to poets and writers whose native language is español who sometimes come to our once a month writers-reading-to-each-other group. We meet for La Lectura the 3rd Sunday of each month at Hotel Embajadoras at 6pm, either in the patio or in a corner of the dining room. Anyone is welcome to bring something to read or come to listen.

"Swan Shock" now online

2010-02-17T16:32:00.000-08:00

For any of you from the Northwest, I had Laurelhurst Park (Portland) in mind as the setting for this fantasy, a secular update on Leda and the Swan. A dozen years ago, an editor I respected rejected the story so I wrote another, shorter, more comic version called "Therapy" that he published. I've since read "Therapy" twice for San Miguel events. It has also appeared translated in Espresso, the literary section of El Correo, the Leon newspaper.

To make a long story short, in 2009 when I sent the original story to the Bewildering Stories folks, they liked it, "Swan Shock" is now online at www.bewilderingstories.com. Click issue 371 where you'll find fiction that despite the website name is not bewildering.

Alert along Paseo de la Presa at night

2009-12-29T14:13:00.000-08:00

A year and a half ago a friend and I were robbed by two young men with pistols near the foot of the privada (dead end street, but in this case there is a stairway that goes up a rock slope to the Panoramica) where I live. I thought at the time we had been careless to be out after midnight.

Then two weeks ago, on December 17 of this year, I was assaulted on the stairway between the poorly-lighted privada and my house, again after dark but much earlier at 8:30pm. This was an ugly event, with the man violating me with his hand as well as robbing me. Not only that, when he disappeared, he came back a minute later to throw me to the ground again and repeat his behavior. After the second attack, while I was considering what to do without my keys, I saw him walk calmly down to the main street .

A couple of minutes later, I went down to the abarrotes (little grocery store) where someone phoned the police and the person who had a copy of my key. At my request, the police called an ambulance to check my shoulder, which was hurting. Turned out I will have what's called a painful shoulder for a long time, but nothing was broken. I will also have to have some expensive dental work because of damage to the bone beneath a tooth.

Needless to say, this time I have already started packing up to move to a better lighted neighborhood near a bus stop.

A good place to sample Mexican fast food

2009-12-29T14:07:00.000-08:00

I like the huaraches and alambres at Kekas Coco on the left side of Paseo de la Presa as you go toward the presa. It's past Farmacia San Francisco and a child care center but before the street Subida del Molino that goes up to the Panoramica. I'm not sure when the tiny restaurant opens but it stays open in the evenings. 3:30pm is a busy time there. Tea de limon served in a big cup for 7 pesos.

See what Mexican & Chinese honor-the-dead customs have in common

2009-12-10T08:17:00.000-08:00

Stick with the slideshow, folks, as it gets to be very funny. The credit goes to my son Jon.

El Campanero is for more than walking

2009-12-06T08:56:00.000-08:00

You{ll know you're on El Campanero, a sloping pedestrian street connecting Sopeña and Sangre de Cristo in Guanajuato by the archway. Now the street, with three restaurants and cafeterias, makes a fine stopping point for relaxing and sipping or eating.

Santocafe, with its outside tables on the arch, is the oldest establishment or you can sit inside with their hip, young crowd. A bit pricey but in line with the other two places along the street and with a more ample menu, meaning you can get a hot meal there. Some vegetarian options.

Farther up, you'll come to La Casona del Campanero. You'll see a passageway that leads to the patio and a half dozen shops filled with upscale crafts. A good place for coffee and, I've heard, salads.

El Kaapeh is the newest, featuring coffee, salads and breakfast. Seating is at tables or on their sofa near the coffee bar. If you're hungry, you can proceed upstairs to Doña Lety's Fonda Antigua.

My ghost story set in Guanajuato now published online

2009-11-20T20:25:00.000-08:00

You can reach "Our Mutual Friend" at www.bigpulp.com, then clicking fantasy. The story was written a few years ago before coffeehouses in Guanajuato were full of laptop users. Instead they were social centers, especially for people without phones. Yep, Guanajuato as it was before cell phones were widespread. The story is a fantasy, but full of realistic details.

Wondering how I found a website that turned out to be interested in this story? Click on Duotrope , a free writer's resource that I found motivating and rewarding. My article, "Reading Aloud to Your Fellow Writers," is doing well at www.associatedcontent.com

Cervantino Festival Begins Tonight and a Suggestion

2009-10-14T16:43:00.000-07:00

I'll be at the Alhondiga tonight with 1500 others to see giant puppets from Quebec dancing to Ravel's Bolero. If you're not in Guanajuato and have time to spare, go to www.associatedcontent.com to check out articles I've written on Guanajuato.

Young violinist to play at Iconografico Thurs, Oct 8

2009-10-06T15:56:00.000-07:00

Teenager Elena Makhnev, who already has a distinguished track record (see below), will be playing Brahms Hungarian Dance #5 and other works this Thursday. Concerts at the Iconografico are gratis, with the doors closing promptly at the starting time.

ELENA MAKHNEV Nació en 1993. Realizo sus estudios musicales a la edad de 6 años bajo la dirección de su padre Stanislav Makhnev, Integrante de la orquesta sinfónica de la universidad de Guanajuato. Durante su trayectoria musical ha realizado diferentes conciertos a acompañada de talentosos pianista. Obtuvo el premio de niña talento por televisa san ángel, abrió ruta teletón para el crip de Irapuato. Como solista empezó a los 9 años ejecutando el concierto de Vivaldi, acompañada por la camerana juvenil bajo la dirección Mario Rodríguez Taboada ,a los 10 años toco el concierto de Bach en la menor con dicha camerana , participo en el concurso nacional de violín realizado por el conservatorio de Música de la UNAM. Hermilo Novelo, logrando el tercer lugar a nivel nacional a los 11 años fue aceptada en la Escuela Central de la Música del Conservatorio de Tchaikovsky de Moscú, Rusia. Donde aun realiza sus estudios, bajo la distinguida maestra Natalia Tatisheva. Participo en la temporada X11 OTOÑO –INVIERNO 2006 como solista con el concierto para violín F. Mendelsonh OP.64 en Mi menor con los tres movimiento a acompañada por la orquesta juvenil del estado de México dirigida por Mario Rodríguez taboada. Ha realizado diferentes concierto en los municipios Guanajuato, Celaya, león, Irapuato, san miguel allende actualmente en julio saldrá a Francia donde dará un ciclo de concierto como master class actualmente es patrocinada por el FONDO- NACIONAL de la cultura y las artes de México CONACULTA-FONCA.

La Carbonera School Children Visit Gto

2009-09-25T18:19:00.000-07:00

These children from the primary school in La Carbonera, a community a few kilometers past the bus station, toured Guanajuato Capital several weeks ago. They, their teacher and several mothers visited the Iconographic Museum devoted to Cervantes' Don Quixote novel, the Teatro Juarez and the historic Alhondiga.

Here a few of the girls are coming downstairs from the foyer used for decades by ladies in the audience who wanted to touch up their makeup during intermission.

The boy in the other photo had just jumped up to imitate the posture of the Don Quixote statue visible in the background. Then, just as quickly, he sat back down to draw.

Arcoiris (Rainbow Connection), a bi-cultural women's organization in the city, worked with the school community teacher to arrange the trip.

Huitlachoche -- The Time Is Now

2009-09-22T16:31:00.000-07:00

We've had several heavy rains in Guanajuato recently so I wasn't surprised that Sunday I saw huitlacoche sold being sold by a sidewalk vendor. This is the grey-black fungus that grows on corn on the cob in the rainy season. If you don't say yuck to mushrooms, it's worth a try, either at home or from the quesadilla and gordita seller at the foot of the Alameda. The huitlacoche and remaining corn kernels are cut from the cob, then sauteed in a tomato, garlic, onion mixture that has been prepared first. I wish I'd taken a photo before I sat down to eat. You can buy huitlachoche on the cob near Mercado Hidalgo, along the street leading into Calle Alondiga, and sometimes from women selling outside the Embajadoras Market.

Four Tasty Treats

2009-09-10T20:16:00.000-07:00

Although sometimes this blog suggests that my Guanajuato life consists mainly of eating, that isn't true. It's just that I like to head visitors in Guanajuato to places where I think they'll eat well.
First on my list today is Truco 7, an old standby on calle Truco between the Jardin and Plaza de la Paz. Their comida is nothing special but I love (not too strong a word) their chicken sandwich, a roll filled with breast meat complemented by tomato, avocado, and a chile, removable if you're so inclined. Truco is very pleasant evenings and late mornings, the latter a popular time with university people wanting a cuppa.

Another Mexican restaurant I like is El Cerro de las Ranas on the right side of Juan Valle going toward Positos and the tunnel. It is becoming increasingly popular with Guanajuatenses so I recommend arriving before three. Dark green walls, high ceiling, efficient service for a meal that often goes beyond the usual Guanajuato restaurant fare. Today I started with chicken soup containing pieces of chicken instead of carrots and chayote, a memorable three color salad of layers of beet, jicama and carrot, a large torta of acelgas or chard in guajillo sauce (a mild tasty pepper) and as the postre, a small buñuelo or elephant ear. Agua de fruta or natural included. 40 pesos.

Four my birthday, I ordered a French chocolate cake from Veronique at La Midi in San Fernando plaza and shared it with friends. There's no need to order a whole cake though. You can cut whatever you-sized slice you want and pay by the weight.

At 6pm, I went to an art opening at the Olga Costa Museum in the white-walled gallery with white marble floors across from the older part of the museum. The paintings and installation by three Spanish women show to advantage there. They will remain for about a month. Yes, along with the interesting art there was finger-food for the occasion, antojitos from Corcho d'baco, which now has a new semi-upscale salad restaurant in a building with several galleries and shops in the Campanero (on the way to Sangre de Cristo from the main street). You order upstairs but can eat your salad in the patio if you like.

I'm back in Guanajuato

2009-08-27T14:56:00.000-07:00

I'm back from visiting family and friends in Berkeley, Philadelphia, Washington DC amd Brooklyn. While I was in the US I replaced my camera so I'll soon be posting photos. Yesterday a friend, Ysabel, introduced me to an inexpensive restaurant on Positos near or at #23. A simple meal but the "nude" chile relleno (no batter) filled with ground meat was tasty. 35 pesos.

Children Take to the Streets in Guanajuato

2009-07-03T21:18:00.000-07:00

Walking the Guanajauto streets brings unexpected rewards, like accompanying an Estudiantina made up of secondaria students from Monterrey. I was so taken with their music that when they stopped at Plaza Allend I ran ahead to Cafe Tal and brought the leader a cup of Tal coffee.

One morning about a week later, I came uon a parade down Paseo de la Presa, young students holding colorful banners with messages (in Spanish) like "Save the Planet" and "Love and Peace." They tied up traffic along this main street for almost half an hour but ni modo.

Sorry folks, for now my camera is out of order

2009-06-11T18:18:00.000-07:00

but neanwhile you can click on the archives to see past photos.

Tourism way down, two economical restaurants closed, but culture booming

2009-06-11T18:01:00.000-07:00

My landlady has vacancies in her two temporary and usually occupied rentals, La Venta de Tobosa And Las Cruces restaurants have closed down, but Guanajuato's cultural scene is a least as busy as ever. Cine Club is offering international films Sun-Wed evenings, trumpeter Jason Pettit and his bass partner play jazz early Thursday evenings at The Capellina, theatre events are popping up, the Symphony has resumed its Friday concerts and keep an eye out for special musical offerings at the museums. AND don't forget the days long popular San Juan Days festival, starting June 24. The tourism office in Plaza de la Paz says a flyer should be available there soon.

At this time, no swine flu in Guanajuato

2009-05-08T11:58:00.000-07:00

Social life almost dwindled to a standstill through May 5, cinco de mayo, but now the federal government has auhorized the reopening of the universities and high schools, with teachers working to disinfect the lower schools for reopening next week. The city is waking up, with many people in the Jardin last night, even an art openibg of work by Oscar Cruces in the patio of the legislative building in Plaza de la Paz. A big tinaco (water tank) with faucet has been placed near Embajadoras Market where people can was their hands. At least a good reminder even though the soap runs out early.

Why I'll be celebrating my 10th anniversary in Gto with a cast on my left arm

2009-04-20T20:57:00.000-07:00

I slid back while scanpering up a concrete ranp in the Saucillo neighborhood. Later learned it's nearly done in a lot of people but they were wearing shoes with good traction. I wasn't. To have the injury diagnosed and an X-ray, I went to a private clinic nearby, then to the General Hospital to have the bone set.

Guanajuato's Dog Lovers

2009-03-13T08:45:00.000-07:00

Thanks to the efforts of Amigos de los Animales and others, the city of Guanajuato now has few street dogs. On weekends you're likely to see owners in El Centro with their pets. One of my friends has a huge, gentle Great Dane/something else cross but she leaves him home.

Full Moon Over Guanajuato, March 10

2009-03-09T22:03:00.000-07:00

Yes, it's almost full tonight and brilliant over the Basilica, from Calle Alhondiga or just about anywhere in the city. Peak time to see it, about 8:30pm. To check for dates later in the year google "full moon" and "Mexico City."On a new moon night, you'll have a better chance to see stars, although the city lights give them competition.

Viewing the Moon Where the Ancients Did

2009-02-01T21:02:00.000-08:00

I havaen't figured out yet how to copy an available web image of the new moon to my blog, but no matter.

Like a thousand others, I climbed to the top of the hill at Las Plazuelas last night for LaNochedelasEstrellas, Mexico's way of participating in International Astronomy Day. The payoff: a clear night: the constellations overhead (with the North Star nowhere near where it "ought" to be. a glimpse of the moon through a telescope and being part of the throng having a good time at this well-arranged event intended to stimulate interest in science and pride in the calculating abilities of the people who built the Plazuelas complex.. This no-cost occasion, like the twenty-two others around the country was sponsored by INAH.

Las Plazuelas, one of four archaeological sites in the state, can be visited during daytime arrives by driving south of Penjamo or taking a bus to Irapuato, then Penjamo and on by here colectivo to within walking distance of the site, but of course the star and moon viewing was at night, meaning someone had to make arrangements. The ""someone" coordinating was the Alliance Francaise.

If I hadn't mentioned at lunch to a friend my disappointment that I WASN'T going to be able to attend even though I had bought a newspaper specifically to find out how, I wouldn't have found out what to do! That's the way things work in Guanajuato. I won't go into all the details here; you'll just have to believe me when I say that I rate my being on one of the buses provided a happy blend of luck and persistence.

For the people of the nearest community, the evening was a chance to supplement their income by selling gorditas, atole, ponche and other warming goodies. All in all, for me -- and who knows how many budding scientists? -- a memorable night.

New shop with bright purses from Guatemala

2009-02-01T20:36:00.000-08:00

I was in the center of town today when I bumped into my friends Ana and Mike. Ana, who is from Guatemala, told me they had just been in a new shop featuring articles from her home country. I wasn't long in going to see if I might be able to buy a neck pouch there. The shop is across from Templo San Fernando between Sopeña and the bottom of the Campanero, meaning a five minute walk at most from the Jardin. Lots of well'made bright colored woven shoulder strap bags, in fact many kinds of purses, other woven items and, yes, neck pouches. Owners Gisell Iriorte and Cesar Rodriguez, whose roots are Pure'pecha, have named the shop IRETERI but all the goods are from Mexico's southern neighbor.

!Picante! Spring Writing Workshop for Beginning Writers

2009-02-01T17:19:00.000-08:00

Mark Johanngsmeir and I will be offering The !Picante! Writing Workshop for beginning writers who want to spice up a blog or the story that lurks within. Participants can look forward to heightening skills and confidence in a supportive setting.

The four session workshop will be held February 19, 24,26 and March 4 from 11:30-1:00pm upstairs at the Pinguis Restaurant in the center of town. Price: 400 pesos, non-refundable. Register with either Mark (731-2638) or Rochelle (731-0291).

Mark is a former pastor who has a flair for writing memoir. Rochelle writes short fiction and articles in English for a Guanajuato magazine. They are both active members of La Lectura, a a bi-cultural reading group of local writers.

Embajadoras Market Reopens

2009-01-25T21:23:00.000-08:00

Up the steps as before, but now under a lofty roof so that the space is much brighter and cooler. You'll see most of your favorite vendors eventually although on this first weekend some of the old familiar faces were missing. I went with my shopping bag and without my camera. For me a successful expedition. Besides the fruits and vegetables I went for, I came home with a look-like-new pair of light blue pants and a rose-colored merino wool sweater.

Succulent Dried Fruit

2008-11-25T16:34:00.000-08:00

A source I like for flavorful, moist apple slices and prunes is El Cubilete between the Mercado Hidalgo and Farmacias Similares. Great for alleviating hunger pangs and keeping the purchaser from giving in to less salubrious snacks.

How to find out what's on Radio Guanajuato

2008-11-22T09:28:00.000-08:00

Go to www.extension.ugto.mx, then click on radio. Once there, click on the day that interests you. For example, you'll see Musica del Mundo (World Music) listed on weeknights at 6:30pm, university events announcements at 9:30am, and OSUG's recent symphony concert at 9:30am Sundays. Then tune your radio to 970 AM or 1000.7 FM.

Strolling on the Day of the Dead, Sunday, Nov. 2

2008-10-31T09:28:00.000-07:00

This is a day when tourists and residents alike stroll the downtown streets looking at posters contributed on the theme by Guanajuato artists. Calle Alonso or Positos are usually yield a good crop. The molded calavera hangs out in a local restaurant.

Sign of the Times

2008-10-31T09:18:00.000-07:00

In a city notably conservative about language, the main supermarkets Mega and La Comercial (of the same chain), now post the aisle signs in Spanish and English. Most of the English words are spelled correctly. This sign was positioned where I could get the best shot.

Cervantino Exhibits to Continue Through October

2008-10-26T20:11:00.000-07:00

The old Mexico City bus is on view at the Mexican toy exhibit, Museo del Pueblo, which also houses tributes to artists Paco Patlan and Francisco Pichardo who died during the past year.

The Ibarguengoitia exhibit, in all its variety, is at the Casa de Cultura near the Mercado bus stop. Prepared with love by Mexico City professionals, well worth seeing for its portrayal of old Guanajuato even if you haven't read the writer's novels.

Exhibits of work by an assortment of Mexican artists on view at all the museums: Alhondiga, Iconografico, Diego Rivera, Chavez Morado-Olga Costa, Museo del Pueblo, University of Guanajuato

Absorbing the International Cervantino Festival

2008-10-26T16:42:00.000-07:00

Big decisions . . . Seventeen days of cultural events from twenty-six countries, everything from contemporary string music to huge ceramic horses, besides a workehop on the delectable Campeche dishes based on seafood and coconut, a lighthearted, satiric dance company from Barcelona, imaginative exhibits like the one of oldfashioned Mexican toys and another devoted to the life and works of the irreverent Mexican writer Jorge Ibarguoitia and another to old-fashioned Mexican toys, large photos in the tunnels, chamber music concerts like the joint event featuring Guanajuato and Barcelona musicians, giant insects over the heads of the crowd at Pastitos gathered for street theatre, Latin American jazz and rock groups . . . and much more from the two dozen countries participating. Just the thing for culture vultures living in Mexico or beyond.

International Cervantino Festival update

2008-10-10T12:42:00.000-07:00

October 17, 18, 19 in the Teatro Principal at 6pm: The performances of Hamlet have been cancelled because the lead has pneumonia but the Cervantino programmers have come up with a fine substitute, La Vida Es Sueño by Calderon de la Barca. Search for the play by name to find a synopsis of the plot, then enjoy, enjoy this performance by an Argentine/Colombian/Mexican company.

Where you can find more articles I've written on Guanajuato

2008-10-10T12:35:00.000-07:00

Go to www.associatedcontent.com and type guanajuato in the search box. Several of my articles there will come up.

On Guard!

2008-08-04T10:21:00.000-07:00

For the first time during my nine years in Guanajuato, I have been a crime victim. First, I was pickpocketed by a pair of light-fingerd young men at the bottom of the steps leading up to the supermarket, La Comercial. Later, police told me pickpocketing is most common during school vacations.

The second time was frightening. I was going toward my house with a friend along a main street I had walked many times in the hour before midnight. But this time, after going to an Indian movie that lasted until 12:30am and then dropping in at a party, we were on Paseo de la Presa about 2am when our assailants struck just before arriving atan escape route they could use as an easy getaway. When we were assalted by the two pistol-packing young men, my visitor gave up her expensive leather purse laden with electronics right away My thief had to have only a little more patience; soon I gave him mine with hardly more than an old folding umbrella inside. As I was bleeding from a scalp wound and scratches on my right hand, a neighbor called the police who came with an ambulance and a paramedic to dress my wounds.

That afternoon, my visitor and I went to La Judicial on Calle Alhondiga to make a denuncia that would get the crime on record as a case. Today, I followed up by going to an open city meeting where I had a chance to sit down with the policeman and paramedic who had been there. I made a sketch of the lighting problem and the way a parked car blocks a view of the callejon. I made sure to mentione that I had heard of a robbery in the privada a few months before. I also suggested contacting the two landladies owning property along the street. The police officer assured me he knows the sons of one of them

The young woman who sold me a replacement purse said she would send details to the two radio stations. I hope she did. I'll let you know if we receive better lighting in the privada--culdesac--but this one has a pedestrian stairway going uphill.
-------
TIPS TO MINIMIZE THE CHANCE OF BEING A CRIME VICTIM:

Don't think that because you're on vacation, criminals are too
Avoid being out after 11pm or whenever there are few people about
Avoid carrying more with you than you can afford to lose
Go to an ATM during daylight hours & don't count your money on the street
If you're attacked, Don't resist.
Afterward, talk about what happened with friends. You'll get sympathy and useful information.
Learn from the experience but don't blame yourself. It takes at least two for a crime to take place.

Ice Cream & Two More Tried and True Restaurants

2008-07-03T09:56:00.000-07:00

I buy my cone from the vendors on Paseo de la Presa.

Truco 7, a Guanajuato favorite with Mexicans and foreigners alike, is a good place to go when you're not in a hurry. The harried waiters are always rushing but even so the service is slow, at least by Morthamerican standards. After all, Mexicans are there for morning coffee (11-1) or to share a meal (2-4) with family or friends.

I'm not a fan of the comida there but I like their chicken sandwich on a roll, perhaps accompanied by lemonade. Or the chicken Florentine, enchiladas or beef dishes. If you arrive at a busy time, you'll need to sit in the waiting room a while even thought Truco has at least four dining rooms.

To my mind, the food at Sabor y Arte but the service is still good. Another restaurant with the sane owner is Las Cruces on Sangre de Cristo. The comida there includes some of the best soup in town. The comida casera (home cooking) is popular with students. Best to go early, about two.

Tried and True Restaurant Favorite

2008-07-03T09:33:00.000-07:00

La Carreta on the main street near Plaza de Los Angeles is known for its chicken roasted over a wood fire but If you're bored with the usual Guanajuatos lettuce and tomato, know that they serve a creditable cole slaw. You can even ask for a plate of slaw without the chicken. Copies of old Mexican photos on the walls. A casual place popular with families.

I keep forgetting to mention Truco 7 on the street of the same name between the Baratillo and the Basilica. Facing the Basilica, it's the street to the right. Sometimes a wait, especially at comida time 2-4. From 11-1, my favorite time there, it's also a busy place when many Mexicans sit over coffee with their friends.

At Truco 7 I'm not a fan of the usual comida menu. A la carte is more likely to satisfy, whether a chicken sandwich on a roll accompanied by a limonada made with agua mineral. Or consider the Florentine chicken, enchiladas or a beef dish. Truco has at least four dining rooms. The waiters rush about but because they are responsible for many tables, service is slow. Go when you can take your time, the service is slow. Has a loyal Mexican and foreign following. Prices moderate.

Earlier, I've recommended Sabor y Arte but I think the standard there has fallen. Another restaurant with the same owner but a different cook and menu is Las Cruces on Sangre de Cristo. The comida includes some of the best soup in town. Go early, meaning around two. Often closed on Mondays. A good place to try typical Mexican cooking. Usually has a vegetarian option. Inesxpensive.

Guanajuato's Monthly Reading Gang

2008-05-21T16:15:00.000-07:00

More than a year ago Dianne Romain and Sterling Bennett started a monthly bilingual reading group for local writers in English or Spanish. The group, more of a network, meets monthly the third Sunday at 6pm in the big room off the patio at the Embajadoras Hotel. Anyone wanting to read original work is welcome, with a seven-minute max. You can see a half-dozen of my poems by clicking the purple word poems, then clicking poets and typing in my name.

Restaurant Update

2008-05-15T08:52:00.000-07:00

El Burladero is looking for a new location. Meanwhile, alas, it's closed. For its fans, this nostalgia photo.

Cafe de la Presa, just beyond the Governor's Building, has reopened after remodeling and maintains its reasonable price for a set comida, generous portions.

El Midi (Mediterranean buffet owned and micromanaged by Veronique who has lived in Mexico for many years) in San Fernando offers outdoor and indoor tables. Charges 11 pesos per each 100 grams. Sometimes soup is available but always hearty and light salads, delicious desserts, and what may be the best aguas in town.

Las Cruces in Sangre de Cristo features a comida that starts with a delicious soup, then on to the other choices. Not expensive. Go early as it's popular with students. Pro: the decorated walls Con: tuning out the traffic noise

La Fonda Antigua, near Bancomer. The awning is clearly visible but you have to wind your way inside the building. Terrace and indoor dining, quiet music. Simple, dependable comida corrida. Attentive service.

El Abue, in the Baratillo, a little more expensive but not much. Booths and wooden tables, excellent location. Expensive at night.

I continue to like La Torta de Sancho Panza, nearly opposite the Casa de Diego Rivera. Good, inexpensive Guanajuato food. Popular with students. Open Saturdays as well as weekdays, go early for a seat during the week.

Moderate prices: Sabor y Arte. Marfil; Mexico Bonito y Lindo (or is it Sabroso?), Paseo de la Presa, opposite the Governor's Building; the restaurant opposite the Post Office downtown, bland, somewhat international food but a quiet, classy place. There is a new Italian restaurant reported to have a range of tasty choices up near the glorieta Santa Fe (toward the bus station) and another that I think is in San Fernando Plaza, also a new Japanese-Mexican restaurant with Japanese owners up from that plaza.

A San Miguel friend has told me about good, authentic Thai food in Dolores Hidalgo about six blocks from the main plaza there, open well into the evening.

Enjoy, enjoy!

Guanajuato's 1st Chamber Music Festival in Mineral de la Luz

2008-05-11T18:44:00.000-07:00

Friday I went to the second concert. It turned out to be a quartet from Queretaro playing the psaltery (like a dulcimer, the word her is . vijuela (a small guitar with curved back(, guitarron (similar but larger) and accordion. 19th and early 20th century popular music. The remaining four concerts, mostly classical will be Wednesday, May 14th and the following three Saturdays, starting at 6pm. The city department provides free roundtrip bus transportatioin from the Delfina Quinones School, a short walk up Calle Alhondiga from the Alhondiga. If the program doesn't interest you you can enjoy the town and the ride back as the sun is setting.

Neighborhood Festival on a HOT Day in March

2008-03-30T17:25:00.000-07:00

March 20: Ssecond day of a festival in Saucillo across the way from where I live. Lots of thumping music that you won't hear in the blog. Tonight, fireworks. In the heat of the day, the priest talking to the faithful, three kins of dancers - indigeoous, the bull and devil dance, and just plain bouncing. Ice-cream and agua vendors on hand. Note that the basketball-court, beloved to bicyclers, has been leveled between cantera rock walls. I'll have to find out why it's all happening this weekend.

Spring Visitors

2008-03-29T17:12:00.000-07:00

March is my favorite month in Guanajuato because of the clouds of lavendar-mauve blossoms on the jacaranda trees along the streets and hills. After eight years here, I mentally change the tree name when I remember Housman's poem starting "Fifty years is little room to see the cherry trees in bloom."

I like March for another reason, too. With its balmy weather, it's a favorite time for language students to arrive. This year, Kate from Connecticut was back. I met Kate, a singer and ESL teacher last spring. We hit it off and spent an afternoon in Santa Rosa, a nearby hill town. This year we saw each other along the street, had time to catch up with each other and she'll be taking back mail from me to folks on The Other Side.

I've also made a new friend, Marjorie from Denver who introduced herself to me while we were standing in line at an ATM. She clearly knows how to make the most of her time here learning Spanish. She told me she's very pleased with her formal program but supplements it by talking with the children in her host family. "They speak simply and slowly." Marjorie saw me as a resource about Guanajuato. I've benefitted from her take on banking, networking, writing, and US life today. I was getting rusty after mainly depending on online news.

In March, a lot is happening in Guanajuato. Right now the four-day Medieval Fair is on, something like the Society for Creative Anachronism. The hippie-medieval garb definitely brightens up the streets. Today, I also happened to be in front of the San Diego Church near the Jardin when a newly married couple emerged with a bagpiper (gaitero in Spanish) on hand to mark the occasion. The bride was from Denver, the groom from Leon. After the many relatives from both sides streamed outside, I went into the church to see the elegant floral decorations. Having the symphony start up again next week after Easter Week will be almost an anticlimax.

Daylight time begins April 6 in Mexico

2008-03-15T14:22:00.000-07:00

In case you're wondering, Guanajuato will go on Daylight time on April 6 at 2am, giving Mexico one month less of "summer time." The shift is less popular in Mexico, especially in Mexico City, than it is in the US so this is the present compromise.

New Pedestrian Bridge to Embajadoras

2008-02-28T19:52:00.000-08:00

Sundays in Embajadoras Park, a Guanajuato tradition. And yes, my camera is once again connecting with Blogger.

The Lambert (Guanajuatense) Tarot Deck & Paintings

2008-01-12T18:00:00.000-08:00

I am having what I hope is a temporary technical problem in transferring photos to Mexiguana so I'll refer you directly to www.lamberttarot.com, the website where you can read about this ambitious project, see photos, and learn about the dual nature of each Tarot character. The Museo del Pueblo will keep exhibiting the large monochromatic portraits the artists painted so they could create the set of cards. You're likely to see faces of people you've passed on the street as a real Guanajuatense (adoptive or otherwise) sat for each of the Lamberts' tarot characters. Next stop for the show, Queretaro. Rinal date for the exhibit in Guanajuato, January 23.

From La Noche Buena (Christmas Eve) to The Day of the Kings

2007-12-26T09:19:00.000-08:00

Hi, faithful few. I don't know what happened to November but this month I'm only recently back from That Island We're Not Supposed to Visit.

Christmas Eve (called La Nochebuena in Mexico)is the big event of the season but fortunately the taxidrivers were working. I went across time for the annual extended family gathering at the home of the father of a friend. The first part of the event is a game of chance involving little presents. The second part, starting a little before midnight is a sumptous meal similar to a Thanksgiving dinner in the US.

First, the presents game. Each of us brought several wrapped presents. The coffee table was loaded with them as there were 15 people present - grandpa, his sister-in-law, my friend's family and her two brothers' families - all in all six young folks and nine older ones. We took turns rolling the three dice from a glass. A pair meant success meaning pick a present.

Lots of suspense as people looked at and sometimes fingered the packages. Was a big package better than a small one? Would a gift bag from a well-known shop enclose a present from the shop? But everyone recognized a wrapped chocolate bar, among the first shapes to be chosen. When all the presents had owners but were still not opened, we went five rounds more. This time anyone who rolled a pair could choose to take a presnt from someone else. At least one package changed hands twice! The last step was opening the presents. The first one I opened was a small round portable CD case. Just the thing! What did I wrap up to take? An eraser that looked like a strawberry along with a magnet on the back of a plastic piece of cheesecake, a shell necklace and more.

The meal started after each person read part of a long Christmas prayer from a piece of paper randomly assigned. I was the first, managed to do fine. The meal: smoked turkey, bacalao (cod) prepared Spanish style and meatloaf, a cranberry-like jelled salad made of cherry jello and applesauce, creamed spaghetti, wine and/or coca cola, and two scrumptious desserts, meringue topped with whipped cream and fresh strawberries and a slice of pound cake flavored with almond extract and studded with candied fruit and nuts.

All best wishes for the new year. The 12th day of Christmas, here called the Day of the Kings is the day when children get their Real Presents. A sweet-bread wreath called a rosca is traditional that day.

Several Cervantino Photos (& please read the post below too)

2007-10-27T18:22:00.001-07:00

Everyone I know who goes to the Cervantino shakes the kaleidoscope a different way. The man deliberating in front of the posted Cervantino schedule, well that's half of what the Cervantino's about. I didn't take my own photos at the big events like the National Ballet of China or the opera Orfeo by Monteverdi staged by a hero of mine, Jonathan Miller.

All my senses were working at the workshop on Chinese cooking where the chef is shown with his interpreter, a man from the People's Republic of China who works for the Asian Marketing Division of Bimbo, but I've had trouble placing the photo where I want it. The chef, who mads cooking look like ballet, heads up the cooking staff at the Chinese Embassy in Mexico City. That's Esther Boles of Guanajuato interpreting for Dulcinea Langfelder, a Canadian actress who can mimic spanish better than she understands it. Circolio had audiences laughing wherever they went.

Beer & Culture in Guanajuato

2007-10-27T17:16:00.000-07:00

Cervantino35 has come and gone and I'm the better for its coming. For eight years, I've enjoyed my immersion in hish=quality cultural events brought from Africa, Asia, and Europe for the Mexican elite. Some pop events in the Alhondiga, open to all at no cost except going early for a seat, are fine too when the sound system isn't set to blast level. The partying done by throngs of young people in the streets only happens Friday night into Sunday morning, leaving Sunday afternoon until Friday for Culture and ordinary life.

For anyone who thinks Guanajuato is mainly festivals, pretty painted facades and enjoying life in San Fernando Plaza, I've included the photo about life as it is lived most of the time by most of the people here. If I thought the budget cut announced for next year's Cervantino budget would mean more funds for improving primary education, I'd be for it.

Want to Know More about La Michoacana?

2007-10-01T11:39:00.000-07:00

Guanajuato has at least two branches of this ice cream chain, one along the Jardin and, if I'm remembering correctly, the other in Plaza San Fernando. I came across a fascinating essay on why and how La Michoacana succeeded and also how the idea has spread to the U.S.

Lindsey's Associated Content article La Michoacana deepened my understanding of Mexico. If you're equally curious, go to www.associatedcontent.com, then type the words LA MICHOACANA in the search box before or after heading for your next ice cream.

Annual Taking of the Alhondiga Day Fills Guanajuato Streets

2007-09-29T09:04:00.000-07:00

Yesterday, when I went down to Embajadoras, the entry street was filled with riders on their mounts. Spectators lined the route of course. I saw horsemen from clubs as far away as Tamaulipas and a few women and children on horseback too. The parade had been underway a long time as the local children and bands made their appearance. A festive day, popular with Guanajuatenses.

For Me, It's High Pollen Season

2007-09-15T16:23:00.000-07:00

I moved to Guanajuato partly because in Oregon my allergies were getting worse. For three years, Guanajuato was an allergy-free paradise for me. Then I started being pollen-sensitive again but the allergies were well-controlled by a low-priced medication with hardly a side-effect. Usually I have problems with pollen when the jacaranda blooms (March or April) and again around September.

This year for the first time in Guanajuato, I have been wheezing at night. I don't know whether my having a cat in the house for ten days in June caused the worsening or whether it's happening because we've had a wetter than usual rainy season, maybe increasing mold as well as pollen.

Rainy Season Waterfall within the City

2007-09-01T14:37:00.000-07:00

Now we're at the end of October but somehow I deleted this post made in August. Here it is again for comparative purposes. Guanajuato is still green but the waterfall barely trickles now over the dropoff in Pastita.

Twice Up Paseo de la Presa

2007-09-01T13:49:00.000-07:00

A week ago, I walked up Paseo de la Presa, a wide Guanajuato street only 200 years old, spending a relaxing afternoon just looking and taking photos. Three days later, I walked up it again, this time with a friend who had grown up in a house on the Paseo. She told me that house had been built about 125 years ago as had most of the houses we passed. She knew exactly what family had lived in each and usually still had family members living there. She explained the houses were built by people whose money came from a boom period in the mining industry. The patio with its well maintained garden is in a house currently owned by the University of Guanajuato where it maintains an offfice for its retiree organization. Incidentally, the Governor's Palace was built only 50 years ago although it looks older. The OXXO store opened about a year ago.

Signs of the Times?

2007-08-15T19:25:00.001-07:00

Guanajuato's downtown supermarket, La Comercial, now has its aisles labeled JUGOS / JUICES SALSA/SAUCES and so on including a bilingual sign at the checkout reminding customers an employee will go back and pick up anything the customer has forgotten to buy. Except for several bilingual historical signs with what one visitor has called "quaint" English, a first for this city.

Photos from my week in the Puebla Sierra

2007-08-12T12:08:00.000-07:00

So you'll know that rain is part of the Sierra lifestyle. For photos of Sierra people, the landscape and amate making, scroll down in Ann's Travel Blog.

A few details

2007-08-12T10:58:00.001-07:00

I felt like Columbus discovering America but of course everything and everyone had been there long before I passed through. It can be hot in the middle of the day but gentle rain and mist are what made it special for me.

I went from the Guanajuato bus station by way of Queretaro and Pachuca and on to Tulancingo. I got a good tip there when I asked two women chatting at a street corner where I could find an economical, clean hotel. They directed me to the Colonial,what I would call moderately priced but a delight, comfortable, well-run, a spurting fountain in the patio, a buzzing restaurant through a passageway. The next morning I saw a bit of the center of the city, including children concluding the city-sponsored music program, also the vendor booths with artesanias set up in front of the Templo de los Angelitos.

Then a two-plus-hour bus ride to Zacatlan, a market town where I arrived a week before their annual Apple Festival. When I was turned away from the place I expected to stay from perusing the internet, I went to a hotel in the heart of the market district, where I was looking down on the tarps protecting the vendors from either rain or sun. The men and women with their goods laid out were already there in anticipation of the hustle and bustle leading up to the Festival.

After a dreary time looking for a restaurant my first evening, the next morning I headed to the indoor market where I breakfasted on mixiote, a tasty lamb dish stewed in wrappings. That night I found the Cafe del Zaguan with its good coffee. It has several rooms that can hold 150 people in all, the high -ceilinged back room with musicians playing, the front rooms more intimate. Obviously a favorite, not just of mine.

The owners of the no-frills hotel where I stayed were a mother and son of Mexican ancestry but American citizens. They were happy to talk with me in English, the mother explaining the vendors ("they come without permission") and a large group of guests ("probably from Mexico City, here for a party"), the son telling me about his work as a customer service rep--he still lives in Texas, just visiting--and why he voted for Our President twice.

The next day, I went to the Clock Museum. The man who had left it to Zacatlan was the self-taught clockmaker who had created the first workshop in Mexico for monumental clocks, the kind I later found topping the Municipio in Pahuatlan. I don't remember all the countries that now have one of the clocks. The business is still going, run by his sons and grandsons. The small free museum had models of ways man has kept time through the centuries, from Egypt, Europe, Pakistan. Sundials, of course, but many other ingenious inventions, from measuring candles to giant structures casting shadows. I was sorry I didn't get back to take the pictures I intended.

Zacatlan is the Mexico I had dreamed of. Not very touristy most of the time (including when I was there) but with good food in the market and a convivial coffeehouse. I bought four small coffee cups made in China, feeling disloyal for passing over the higher priced talavera.

The next morning, two hours more on the bus to Pahuatlan, a small town but with several comunidades surrounding it. Thanks to Ann Crew who passed through Guanajuato, I knew about two hotels and after balancing the claims of low price and the luxury of a swimming pool, chose the higher priced San Carlos, which seems like a large hotel although it only has 28 rooms and, when I arrived, more employees than guests. That was because I was there during the week. Pahuatlan, 3.5 hrs by bus from Mexico City attracts weekenders from there, Puebla, Texcoco and so on. I was told about 25% of the guests are foreigners. Interesting because I only saw one other in Zacatlan and Pahuatlan combined.

When I realized I had left my hat in the bus which lays over for several hours before returning to Tulancingo, I went up and down the main street to find out where I could find the driver. I followed the clues, found him at lunch, decided I was ready to eat too. He pumped me with questions (an older woman traveling alone, he was curious). It became more and more evident to me that in this part of Mexico, people like something that makes a change in their day.

I went in a taxi with several other riders to San Pablito where amate, a paper made from plant fiber, is made by hand. When I was in Zacatlan my sidetrip was to a nearby waterfall. Usually, when I'm traveling, I don't buy anything but on this trip, besides the coffeecups, I bought a hand-embroided cloth with a grape design, some fabric so I could try cross-stitching on my own, a piece of amate with a superimposed Otomi papercut design, and a long strip of fabric with bronze colored embroidered animals. For the first time ever, I unzipped the expandable portion of my suitcase.

Then home by way of Mexico City's North Terminal, definitely the more comfortable way. I left my suitcase in the guardaequipage there, went into the city with only a market-type shopping bag holding what I would need overnight, went by way of La Raza on the Metro, ending up four blocks from my favorite Mexico City hotel, but hey, this is about the Puebla Sierra, with its sun, mist and gentle rain; where you can still see Otomi women in their traditional clothes, come across people who speak Nahua at home and Spanish at work; a part of Mexico where I treated myself well and felt at ease.

An Afternoon's Work

2007-08-01T10:53:00.000-07:00

The day before I took this picture, refrigerators were visible behind the plain glass door. In a single afternoon the nieces of Restaurante Ofelia's owner transformed the door with butterflies and background, all created with plastic paint. First, they did the outline in black, then filled in the colors. I didn't have my camera with me while they were working but I came back to photograph the result.

Restaurante Ofelia, on Paseo de la Presa before the Saucillo callejon, offers a low-priced comida corrida which can be eaten inside or in their patio. Bright blue furniture from Morelia and good service add to the cheer. At night, Ofelia serves higher priced dishes at cena time. The owner, who spent 20 years in Los Angeles, lived in Los Angeles for 20 years.

The Reel/Real World in Guanajuato

2007-07-28T11:47:00.000-07:00

This is the week of Exprsion en Corto, the annual international short film festival in Guanajuato, when deciding what to see is a major task for the serious-ninded. These folks are catching their breath between sessions at the Teatro Principal. A friend told me the Kenneth Anger retrospective at midnight with Anger there talking about the films was his Festival high. Another friend said she was off to see (or resee?} Lawrence of Arabia. A woman I met at the bus stop near the state auditorium said she was seeing as much as possible, then turned aside to make a call on her cellphone. Less than a minute her ride arrived.

This year, to simplify my life, I made documentaries my priority. I sat through footage and enacted text from diaries that summoned up the horrors in Nanking 1937; a moving recreation of the married love of two foreign photographers in Angangueo, Mex; a funny, techically brilliant Cuban film about Castro's fish-culture program; a woman's successful bid for a seat in the Afghan parliament. and more. I saw Muslim ritual slaughtering of goats and sheep in Queens, Filipinos shanghaied to serve food to U.S. soliers in Iraqi and a photographer destroyed by his own success at showing tragedy in Africa.

By today, I was ready for "Native New Yorker," for the most part a deceptively simple. rhythmic tribute in black and white to the Big Apple as the camera follows a Native American with the whole of the city as his trail.

Expresion en Corto, founded by Sarah Hoch, brings the world to San Miguel de Allende and Guanajuato in a way that only the moving image and well-chosen words can do. With their combination of light, color, drama and sound track, for me documentaries are the hertrending 21st Century equivalent of grand opera.

Don't know what happened . . .

2007-07-24T07:54:00.000-07:00

But the list I had of other sites about Guanajuato has disappeared. I'll see what I can do to replace the links. Meanwhile, One I came across today was technocrati. If you walk up the wide callejon through the Saucillo neighborhood (on the right heading up Paseo de la Presa toward Presa de la Olla) you'll see the green man.

Yet Another Way to Get Liquid Into Your System

2007-07-21T18:55:00.000-07:00

This man works hard from late morning until about six pm scooping out water based sherbet and cream based ice cream. My favorite sherbet flavors of the season pineapple and guava, fresh fruit used of course. Mantecado, vanilla ice cream with candied fruit in it, is a Mexican favorite. Once in a while I see banana ice cream, the summit for me. At this stand on Paseo de la Presa across from the mouth of the Embajadoras tunnel, a cone costs seven pesos. Plastic cupfuls go up from there depending on the size. Larger take-home quantities available too.

Celebrating rain, Guanajuato Turns into Disneyland

2007-07-13T20:18:00.001-07:00

The Presa opening finally took place when the mayor was back from Paris and could play his part in marking the occasion. Hundreds, maybe thousands, attended. No one works on the day except the ambitious, hardworking vendors of everything from food to rides for the kiddies to rainwear. Also special bread from Acamabaro, hotdogs, enchiladas, micheladas, you name it on this largely family occasion. And yes, rain fell. I sat under an awning eating enchiladas.

Hotcakes were selling like, well,,hotcakes . . .

2007-07-13T19:38:00.000-07:00

Rainy season advisory and event

2007-06-29T09:05:00.000-07:00

When I landed at BJX this time after a long day in air-conditioned airports and planes, rain was pouring down. Luckily, I could pull out a brimmed cloth hat from my shoulder bag that kept me mostly dry. Late afternoon or evening rains like this one are common in June and July.

For the people of Guanajuanto, rain is a blessed event. The first week in July every rainy year guanajuatenses congregate near the dam at the reservoir known as Presa de la Olla. This year Monday, July 2, there will be speeches, band music including "Over the Waves," vendors, crowds, merriment, and, most importantly, the gush of water. Starts at either noon or one, you'll have to check or start looking to see when people throng up Paseo de la Presa toward the reservoir.

One hundred two years ago at this time, to be exact, July 1, 1905, Guanajuato suffered its worst flooding perhaps since the city began. You can see how high the river rose by looking at the little plaque well over the taxi in the modern photo Doyle Phillips is sharing. Thanks, Doyle!

Sometime after that disaster, someone had the bright idea of containing the Guanajuato River in a humungous pipe so it would run under the city instead of flooding it. Nowadays, when you go through the subteraneo, the tunnel cars and buses use from Embajadoras to past the nercado, you are riding over the tamed river.

Hidalgo Treats Arrive in Guanajuato

2007-06-29T08:48:00.000-07:00

As a foodie and budget traveler, I indulged frequently in pastes (pronounced as two syllables) when I visited Pachuca in Hidalgo, the mining center where men from Cornwall kept up their habit of eating pastry-wrapped lunches. Over the years, the fillings have changed from the meat, carrot, peas of Cornwall to Mexican versions like frijoles, pineapple, potato, chicken tinga and mole.

In Guanajuato, Fernando Chavez and Cristina Naveda have opened "El Hidalguense," their specialized bakery-little restaurant at #29 Sangre de Cristo, the street leading up to Embajadoras Market. The shop will be open six days a week, the particular day of rest not yet decided. Pastes sell for six pesos apiece, the same price as a tostada de ceviche and a little less than an ice cream cone. I walked in with my new camera just when Cristina was opening the oven door. That's Fernando looking on.

If you're looking for Pan Integral

2007-06-14T07:56:00.001-07:00

There's no mistaking the aroma signaling a tortilleria that makes tortillas from masa (cornmeal dough), but to find whole wheat bread, head for La Infancia on Calla Alonso where you'll find hot-dog shaped fluffy rolls, La Purisima near the Hidalgo Market offering a denser variety in round and long shapes, or for the whole wheat loaves on sale daily at El Abue Restaurant just above the Baratillo. At a bakery, pick up a tray and tongs when you enter, take as long as you want to choose,, carry the tray to the pricer who also bags your purchases, and pay at the cash register. The Mexican women I see in the evening buying for breakfast end up with a tray of mixed sweet tolls (pan dulces) shown here. I tried to use a Picture contributed by visiting New York art historian/writer/photographer Rob Meadows-Rogers. Thanks, Rob, for taking time from photographing doorways to take the image but there were technical troubles. I took this photo with my new camera.

April's Annual Book Fair Offered More than Books

2007-06-09T08:04:00.000-07:00

Mexiguana is finally going photographic. The photo you see shows dancers from the University of Guanajuato's Nursing School performing at this year's Book Fair during Semana Santa. Just as at The Big Ones in Guadalajara, Madrid, and Mexico City, the fair offered puppet shows, folk dancers, big name trova singers like Alejandro Delgadillo and many Alejandro Filio, and more. Francisco Azofra Herni generously contributed the photo.

Eightish on a Rainy Evening

2007-06-08T21:46:00.000-07:00

I went downtown last night for Barbara Gardiño's opening at the Museo del Pueblo. The bus took a detour through the set of tunnels that come out near Dos Rios but I was able to get off just above the Alameda. Walking down toward the Baratillo I realized once again how pleasant it is to be on a less jazzy street than usual when many Guanajuatenses are strolling or doing errands. By the time I reached the museum, I was already relaxed and ready to look at Barbara's prints and chat with several friends. Then I headed out the door where to my surprise it was raining. Just a drizzle (here called llovizna, softer than lluvia . People were still out strolling in their regular clothes, no worries, in the warm evening.

June is Bustin' Out All Over

2007-06-04T21:00:00.000-07:00

For some reason, few visitors come to Guanajuato in May, maybe because the guidebooks say it is the hottest month. With the weather shifting every year, I'm not sure that information is timely. Toward the end of May, we had two rains that brightened up the greenery.

Already, this first Monday in June, the number of foreigners on the main streets has jumped noticeably. May was packed with cultural activities and June will be too, especially theater. For opportunities to go beyond the capital, Aventours offers reasonably-priced, ecologically-oriented trips out of the city.

For articles on Mexico with a longer shelf life go to Associated Content and type in at least one word of my name in the search window.