Saturday, April 01, 2006

Guanajuato gems

You can go to for my piece of short fiction set in Guanajuato.

July 24: We actually had rain last night, enough to stay on the sidewalks this morning.


GUANAJUATO IN JULY: If you live the way Guanajuato folks do, staying off the streets during most of the hottest part of the day (12-5), July can be a wonderful time to visit the city. We've been having highs in the high 80s(28C) but the mornings and evenings are cool.

From 5 on until about 10, you'll see lots of people out shopping, sitting in the Jardin, or just walking around. For beating the heat during the day you might try having your afternoon meal at San Fernando Plaza where you can eat crepes under the shadetrees of the BOSSA NOVA or going to EL MIDI, the cool corner restaurant nearly next door that serves reasonably priced vegetarian dishes from the South of France (weekdays only).

More budget restaurants in our city: At night LAS MUSAS features trova but at lunchtime you can arrange your plate from their buffet for 40 pesos. Meat and vegetarian choices and an array of salads. Your drink is extra. Location on Avenida Juarez near the junction with Calle Alonso.

Another possibility is EL CERRO DE LAS RANAS with a set lunch including agua de frutas for 40 pesos. On San Juan Valle.

Across the street from the Diego Rivera Museum is an inexpensive restaurant patronized mainly by students. A filling meal of soup, main plate, dessert and agaua fresca for 25 pesos.

2/24 EVERY SUNDAY AT NOON IN THE EMBAJADORAS KIOSK: folk, pop or dance groups play each Sunday at noon.


EL ABUE in the Baratillo. Graham Gori, a former journalist and new father, is the owner-cook. The restaurant with its natural wood tables and soft music brings a new ambience to our city. One fixed three-course meal with two choices of main course costs about 50 pesos. Coffee and wine available. The owner-cook's ravioli filled with acelgas delighted me on my only visit so far.

Looking for for whole wheat rolls at PAN ANTIGUO? It's now up the Alameda at #31, not far from the Carcamas Cafeteria.


If you take the "Rayas Cerro del Cuarto" bus to the last stop, you can have a walk on the cobblestone streets and then head down a gradual callejon with broad steps and many landings that in the daytime goes through a quiet neighborhood. You'll eventually--after passing several abarrotes with the usual refrescos and refreshments--come out at the Callejon Banos Rusos near the lower entrance to the Centro de Idiomas. Yes, there really were various kinds of public baths, including a Russian style steam bath, in the building that is now CAADI, the University's Language Self-Help Center. On the way up, the bus stops near the Cata Church, aa holy place where believers post their successful vows afterward.

For fresh rolls made with whole wheat flour go to PAN ANTIQUA which recently moved from the Baratillo to the callejon that passes the Carcamanas Cafe. An easier route is up the Alameda to #31.

Good news for fans of Hindu style cooking as Indian food is called in Mexico. Yamuna is in a new reincarnation on Cantaritos between Plaza San Fernando and Positos. Inobtrusive surroundings and Indian music, a trayful of food, imaginative agua de frutas, and a natural dessert are on the no-choice menu that changes daily. Wednesday is eggplant day. Yesterday I had a soup of ground garbanzos seasoned with cumin, rice with corn mixed in, an ample salad, fried eggplant, celery-lime water and yoghurt topped with strawberry jam. Reasonably priced.

Nearly every Wednesday at 6 the Olga Costa museum hosts classic movies on a large monitor in its beautiful sala. I recently saw Fellini's Orchestra Rehearsal, a rare opportunity and of special interest in this city with its symphony. On September 17, the movie will be Amadeus, the last in a series with musical themes. No other films scheduled for September.

For semitas, soft round rolls served with butter and jam, Cafe Tal more or less across from the Hostalito on Sangre de Cristo is the place. Don't worry if they're not on display, just ask.

The English-language page in The Chopper now runs once a month. It can be found a few pages before the classified ads.

Both Hospital Aranda de la Parra and Hospital Angeles in Leon have excellent equipment for the mammograms (mastografia) but my experience was that folloup options are more plentiful at Aranda de la P where both stereotactic and excisional biopsies are offered.

Going to SMA? EL HAREM uphill in San Miguel de Allende on Correo at Murillo serves a delicious plate of shishkebab (brocheta) -- lamb, chicken, or beef -- accompanied with a rice-noodle mixture and fresh salad. I don't know why but the limeade there tastes better than anywhere else. You do have to go up a steep stairway but the view of the plants and trees on nearby rooftops makes the climb worthwhile. Moderate prices at this oasis.

In case you're wondering about snacks and other good food in various parts of our state, visit the following website: ttp://


A new eatery, at least to me: EL BURLADERO between El Ropero and the Cervantes Theatre on Manuel Doblado is a nofrills but adventurous low-priced place for comida between 1:30 and 5. There is a sign over the open doorway but not very visible. You can count on a different menu every day and most are successful. One day recently I had hot spicy beet soup, a plateful of salad (disinfected), eggplant parmesan, and fresh strawberries (also disinfected) & agua fresca. Price 30 pesos. The high ceilinged alcove with its gunmetal furniture seems like a refuge from the heat. By the way the word "burladero" means the protected area where the toreros stand in the bullring.

DONKEY JOTE BOOKS in Plaza San Fernando has closed. The landlord had another use for the space. The owner, Colleen Cote, is still a good source for new and used books in English and Spanish,many language learning books, dictionaries, etc., fairly priced. A supplement not a substitute for the English Library. Two doors down, you'll find a narrow shop with a selection of used as well as new books in Spanish.

The tiled memorial to JORGE IBARGUENGOITIA in Parque Antillon where the famous writer is buried in Parque Antillon, designed by his great-grandfather. If you go there after a rain, consider pulling a few weeds.


El Midi and the Bossa Nova, both at
Plaza San Fernando

Top floor of the UG library for books on
Mexico. Also the Sala Quetzal in the
Biblioteca Publica, San Miguel de A.

Paisa I nor 2, good burritos across from the
Mercado Hidalgo

1 comment:

  1. Anonymous10:15 AM

    Hello! definitively Mellado, Plaza San Fernando and the Park Florencio Antillón are singular places in the city. I share your opinion about the library of the university, I have looked for, read and enjoyed many books there, and the arrivals and exits also, since the street of El Truco is one of my favorite places, about the tacos, I prefer those of El Güero, located in one of the corners of the Plazuela del Baratillo, are simply delicious, greetings!!!


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